

t
was a bright morning when we were leaving Jaisalmer- the famed
GOLDEN
CITYwhich we stayed in for three nights and my guests loved every
moment spent here.
They wished they could stay more.
A
fter all where else in the world they could see a city so
strange, so yellow that any other color over any mansion does not appear
even as an exception! For them the sight still lingered of the
amazing fairy tale fort that glows under the sun like solid gold, and in
that Golden citadel is a tightly packed maze of lanes that still have
inhabited homes; homes having blue-green doors and red floors, women
chatting over front verandahs wearing most exotic skirts and odhanis with
perhaps no care for matching colors.
Yet those colors seem so much at right place that a group of four women is
quite enough to have even a color-blind go crazy.
Last but not the least was the sight of camels over the sand dunes adorned
with most colorful accessories so lovingly named as gorbundh, not to say the
Manganiar musicians at the background wearing red tie-dye turbans looked
handsome too.
The
Pink of Jaipur
Perhaps it was this feeling that they will not be seeing more such mix of
colors had set their heart heavy.
I knew they were wrong. Back in my city, Jaipur where I was born and
brought up, I know yellow is no stone used there at all.
The mansions and bazaars there are colored earthy rosy pink, the fact that
only Jaipur has this antiquity I discovered only when I got to see some
other cities.
The turbans of the men also have more contrasts with predominance of
yellows, pinks and greens, for women it is more of sparkling reds, yellows,
bright blues and dark greens with of-course brocade work on odhanis.
The elephants in festivals are decorated with elaborate designs using
varied colors;
even at the sweet shops I've noticed people prefer
to purchase those that are MULTICOLORED.
Colors on the way
We had our lunch at Pokhran in its old beetroot-red colored fort, an old
man with big white moustache and yellow turban was singing outside with a
stringed instrument in his hand- that too was artificially painted into
green.
We got out of the town negotiating our way through colorful busy market and
were soon on our way towards Osiyan.
We halted at Kheechan to watch another wonder - blue Demoiselle Cranes
sitting pretty against the backdrop of clear yellow sands of the desert.
Further on the way it was the turn of Bishnoi villages- peacocks and
blackbucks roaming freely and groups of Bishnoi women waiting at bus stops.
This time the odhnis were dark maroon, skirts printed brown and low-neck
blouses finely embroidered. Oranges, lemon yellows were also there.
Bishnoi women become overtly shy when not wearing enough ornaments, their
confidence resurfaces only when they are back with white bangles upto the
arms and Jewellery from head to toes.
By the time we reached Jodhpur in the evening we had seen a series of Baba
Ramdev temples having dozens of multicolored flags on top.
The last scene was of large open fields of red chilies being dried and
women heaping them back before the sunsets.
It was difficult to
predict that the sky was getting red of the sunset or due to the fiery red
chilies!
Jodhpur
blues
The next day in Jodhpur sightseeing the predominance of mansions made of
Reddish-brown stone came as an evidence of changing colors in Rajasthan.
Turbans are now essentially Yellow and White, those of Rajputs are colored
or Panchrangas (Five colored).
Auto rickshaws are most elaborately designed, dressed and colored. Watching
from the top of Mehrangarh fort they discovered that Jodhpur is a BLUE CITY!
Further drive towards Udaipur was even more surprising for them, highway
busy of colorful vehicles even trucks painted in dozen colors.
Now
the turbans were getting bigger and redder to almost like balloons near
Ranakpur.
The women were also wearing more colors, this time fluorescent greens,
lemon yellows, oranges and magentas. Landscape too was getting more
colorful; men and women working on primitive Persian wheel looked as
beautiful.
The question of survival?

The turbans returned back to normal size in Udaipur, this time more in red
tie-dyes and pinks.
Women too were more in pinks and greens. My guests discovered that Udaipur
is neither Yellow nor Blue, it is creamish white, it is famed for its
green-blue miniature paintings and in desserts dark brown Gulab Jamuns were
served.
This time while leaving Udaipur they were confident that there lie more
colors further in the tour.
But Catherine couldn't resist asking one question "What makes
Rajasthan so colorful".
Honestly speaking I had no answer. Perhaps because man savors and treasures
the most what nature has not provided him.
Nature has been harsh on Rajasthan. Perhaps this is another attempt of the
people of Rajasthan to fight against all odds, yet another battle for
survival?
Still, I do not have any firm answer.
I discovered Rajasthan as a colorful place only through the eyes of my
guests.
For me it is always the same, a part of my life. How can I find reasons for
my own basic instincts?